Dodge Caliber Oil Change Near Fieldton 79326 TX USA

– Evo x oil pump
– Evo x oil pump sprocket and bolt ( for some reason these are sold separately)
-evo v lower timing set ( I went with the upper and lower cause if I’m already there may as well)
– Evo x crank sprocket
– bolts for the oil pump and one to block off where the fourth bolt of our pump goes….
You’ll need 3 bolts , m8 1.25 x 140 ( 5″1/2)
1 bolt , m8 1.25 x 110 ( believe that’s 4″)
You’ll also need lock washers and regular ones for these bolts
– 1.8 L oil pan from a caliber + oil pan gasket
– rtv sealant ( I used “the right stuff” )
– oil and filter
– red lock tight

I think that basically all that’s needed , but if I do remember something is missing I’ll add it .

Ok so here we go

1. Remover the 10mm bolts holding your coolant reservoir , and your power steering reservoir. ( You’ll want these outta the way for later) and the charge pipe running over the valve cover 8mm

2. Loosen all the 8mm bolts on your valve cover ( don’t take them fully out )

3. Remover your o2 sensor plug and your cam position sensor plug both located on the back of the valve cover on the passenger side of the car.

4. Now remover all your ignition coils with a t27

5. Now jack up the car and remover your passenger side wheel .

6. Remove serpentine belt ( use a 15mm wernch to take the pressure off the tensioner to remove)

7 . Drain your oil and remover oil filter

8 . Remover there upper and lower pullys with a 15mm

9. Remover the pully wheel off the tensioner ( this bolt spins opposite of a Normal bolt )

10. Now that the pully wheel is out of the way on the tensioner you can now remove the two 13mm bolts holding that on.

11. Now that the oil is fully drained , remover the oil pan . It has 10 mm and 13 mm holding it on.

12. Once the oil pan is free you can place a jack with a block of wood under the motor to support it as you’re about to remove the engine mount. Make sure that you use a block of wood or something soft so not to damage anything. Also be sure that where this is going will not be in the way of the oil pump bolts .

13. Now that you have the engine ready to be supported , you can take the 17mm bolt off the far side of the engine mount. You may need to lower or raise the jack to free this bolt and this bolt has a loose but on the far side so be sure to hold that.

14. Now take the 3 , 16mm bolts that hold the mount to the bracket.

15. Now you have room to take the 4 , 13mm bolts off of the mourning plate that sits on the timing cover.

16. Remember those valve cover bolts? Now you can take them and the valve cover off.

17. Now set your top cams so the exhaust and intake line meet and then remover the underdriver pully with a 22mm

18. Now that the timing cover is all clear and you should have the engine close to tdc , you can start pulling all the 10mm and 12 mm that hold the timing cover on.

19. No check and double check that all the bold are free from the timing cover . There are a few on the back side that are hard to get at so pretty easy to forget..

20. Remover the 3 bolts holding the water pump pulley on , all 10mm … I got them loose while the serpentine belt was still on… Sorry it’s hard to remember it all off memory lol

21. Now the timing cover is free! To pry it off as it will be on there good , use the handle of a hammer or something like . Place the handle between the two cam sprockets and gently pry.

22. Take the tensioner and guides off the upper(if applicable) and lower timing

23, now remover the upper chain off the sprocket so you can get to the oil chain.

24. You’ll need to remover all 4 oil pump bolts in order to get the oil chain off. Take

25. Remover the old crank sprocket.

26. Now that you have everything ready for install . You do all the steps you just did but in reverse….

But please reference my videos and there are two ports that need to be plugged or you won’t have oil pressure .